Anna's Turn in the hot seat

Anna's timed assessment came at the worst time possibly for me being her stylist; my Nan's six month anniversary since she'd sadly lost her battle to cancer. Off course I wasn't in the best mood but in the hour and half I had to create Anna's design I honestly tried my best. The hair went okay I wanted to panic but I held myself the best I could for my partner.

Anna's design isn't easy; pretty much every skill except frizzing we're learnt over the last 3 months was incorporated into her design. Especially as I've said before the french plait was what I was super worried about. Thank god me and Anna had been practicing out of class a lot.

I was set up and it was time to work.

For me these are the best shots as they show the hair off in the correct lighting, Anna a few days before the practical decided she wants to add some detailing to the bun; its subtle but adds an attractive finish to the hair.

IT'S TIME

So finely after practicing and practicing it was time for Anna to be my stylist and me be the designer.
Working onto my hair Anna has about a hour and a half all in all to do the design in which she photographed after.

The blue in my hair is really effective against my hairs dark colouring.

I'm really happy with what Anna has achieved into making my design what i had wanted. In the shoot I added pearl earrings as having no hair props I still wanted the clear connotation towards the Elizabethans to be clearly put.

My Design- Practicing

The finished version of my Design, the noting is just saying for Anna what I wanted in a basic format I also wrote up a step by step as of course I wouldn't be able to give Anna directions in the practical

So it was my turn to be the designer in me and Anna's paring first, My design contributed of 2 plaits onto the side of my head moulded into a soft bun with loose curls in my undercut.

Not only were we dedicated in our partnership we also practiced in and out of class to perfect my design.

  

Heres one of the practices we did in class a few weeks into the project. In this lesson Anna worked on  the plaiting and bun of my design mainly getting the shaping correct.

Here is another practice a bit later on in the studio, the shaping was neater and also the amount of time it was taking to plait the hair. The plaiting for me is my favourite technique on the design because not only does it look attractive; the way it creates shape into the hair is interesting to look at.

After looking at the Chanel Couture show in 2010 in Paris with the silver fringes and heart padding I starting thinking what makes my design unique? What can I add to this design?

I started looking into the idea of hair chalk and how it adapts the hair in such an easy way. A few months ago I brought some blue hair chalk in add to plaits for festival season and the summer, I had gotten the inspiration from Instagram and Google images.

Image's like this inspired me, adding a delicate touch to the finished hairstyle. This photo is perfect because the hair is braided

I love this design.

                        http://www.hairromance.com/2013/08/how-to-use-hair-chalk.html

Chanel Couture 10'

  

                 http://www.palacinka.com/2010/01/pastel-heart-shaped-hair-silver-nails.html


I am in love. This look for a Chanel Paris couture show in 2010 is gorgeous. The way the hair has being created in this padded heart is extremely Elizabethan in its shaping. JUST LOOK AT IT. the use of colour and bow detailing could be seen as a modern day influence.

Extremely pretty and unique, the use of a colouring in the shape works well as it though contrasting is really suited. An Elizabethan colour? Maybe not so much but notice the models pale skin and red lips... extremely Elizabethan.

The inclusion of adding a fringe is something that I want to do with my work after numerous practices of trying pin curls and looking like I'd actually been electrocuted. I also like the idea of using colour to the hair like a hair chalk so I don't have to make the commitment of actually dying my hair.

According to Karl Lagerfeld this show is inspired by "Liquid Silver" & "Neon Baroque" but for me personally its like the models has escaped the Elizabethan era and the first place they went to was a disco.

The entire hair is very detailed and structured every strand on the models head has been planned to look that way.

The lace down the parted heart is very fitting with the hair as not only does it hide the silver extensions and blend but is also extremely Elizabethan as lace was extremely popular with obviously the luxurious cuts being for the wealthy and renascence.

Padding- The Heart shape

Elizabethans LOVED the use of padding in their hair styles; especially the Heart ♡ shaped padding that also featured in a lot of hat designs likes the Attifet.

                                                           

Heres a look one day my partner in the session did on my hair using padding and a bun this look is extremely Elizabethan as back in the day these ladies loved their heart shaped hair styles within adapting the hair or using props and hair pieces like the attifet. 

For this look my partner used two pieces of padding in which she wrapped my hair around after crimping. My fringe was an annoying part to do because its shorter its hard to curl so what she did after we had talked about it was it curl it and pin it to maintain the shape.

The bun is just rolled and pinned into place at the base of the head.

Curling the hair like an Elizabethan/Modern Inspired

Throughout the term we have been learning and practicing different curling and frizzing techniques, not only is this great for learning as part of our Styling classes but towards our Elizabethan project as Curling and frizzing will come in the designs for many.

Crimping 

You will need:

Crimper

Sectioning clips

Heat Defence Spray

Using a Crimper is pretty easy, the heat of course depends on someone hair type and thickness. Using a crimper like any other electrical devise which adapts and changes the hair simply turn on and wait to heat up. For the actual crimping take a small section of the hair as it creates a much nicer finished effect and using the crimp from near the roots taking a piece of hair at a time, the amount of time to usually press down the crimp in around 5 seconds. 

The figure of eight curl

you will need:

Large Pins

Grips

Straighteners

Sectioning clips

To create this look which I did on halloween with the help of another member of the course you will need a lot of time due to the time consuming time it will take to cover the entire head.

Start of in the section you want to start with, we started in the front. Make sure hair isn't in the way and all the rest of the hair is sectioned with clips. 

Begin But taking a small piece of hair (small very small) and place the large pin at the root facing up as its much easier to do the figures that way

Around the pin start to wrap round the hair in a figure of eight sequence wrapping round and tucking in with ever step; make sure the hair is tightly on the pin.

When most the hair on the pin secure by wrapping the remaining hair around the end of the pin and fastening wit a small grip (always use the bumpy part to secure with)

Next in using heat with the look get some straighteners turn to a temperature not to hot maybe like 180/190 and pressing onto the figure of eight this not only heats up the hair into shape but also the pin

Leave to cool down before attempting to take pin out, after removing the grip loosen the hair and the pin should slip out if gently pulled.

This look is great for Afros or even what we see in some Elizabethan portraits with the hair down the back of the neck like in the photo from halloween, can be brushed out or left in the zig zag type pattern.

Curling 

Elizabethans loved their curls. In class we learnt techniques on how to create a perfect curl using small curling irons

you will need:

Curling Irons

Brush

Section Clips

Grips

The position of the curling iron whilst starting of the curls is very important, to position yourself and the curling iron correcting is important in achieving the correct curl. 

When picking sections chose a smaller section as its easier to work with especially if the hairs thick but also creates a nicer finish.

Curl the hair in a vertical pattern to the head on the crown (parting). 

Once the curl has been in the iron for enough time (depending on the hair 6/8 seconds) gently realise the hair and let it drop into your hand as its important to keep the curl grab a grip and roll the hair into place near the root; not only does this help get the curl out the way but whilst cooling this keeps the hair in shape for much longer.

                                     http://www.pinterest.com/pin/526780487637234879/

Wow just look at her hair. The tight pin curls that frame her face up to her crown which then looks like its kept into a alice band and caul. Pearls are everywhere this lady was extremely wealthy.

http://www.haircolorsideas.com/bright-hair-colors/blue-hair/pastel-curls/

Oh wow. This hair featured in Elle September 2011 is absolutely gorgeous. The pastel ombre that has been curled and brushed out in this delicate look is extremely effective. I love this look.

Modern Day Hair Inspired by the Elizabethans

Thom Browne, Elizabethan

Oh Thom Browne a truly create collection. Structured with the classic, sexy with the clinched in waists and use of white shades. The makeup though takes a salute towards gotham with the Joker and also Elizabethan with the palette of colour used. Whited out faces with red/cerise lips. These models look like they've just returned from a wild night out.

The hair is the most important feature within comparing this look to an Elizabethan style. Already the clothing speaks Elizabethan with the high collars but taking a lot at the hair and shaping we notice that are clear Elizabethan hints.

The shaping; big and padded. Looking through pictures the like the photos above of the show there are clear heart shaping's emerging; though messy the shape in still there.

The Caul and Ruffled Neck.

              http://blogs.wsj.com/speakeasy/2013/09/10/thom-browne-conjures-absurdist-fashion-onstyle-notebook/

The photo above could not be expressed closer to Elizabethan the use of shape and a hair piece such as the Elizabethan women would have. The caul here is in the colour red; a colour which would of been worn only by people of class due to the dye being a luxury. The caul is also accessorised with pearls exactly like an Elizabethan.






Chanel, Elizabethan

 Chanel
The show was in Edinburgh which incidentally is also Mary Queen of Scots birthplace, symbolic? me thinks so.

If you don't see the referencing in this to the Elizabethan era I would wonder if your eyes were shut. This Chanel show back in W/12 was a clear connotation towards the ear not only with the clothing such as luxury materials golds/pearls and lace with the high collars but the hair. The hair is extremely detailed with the use of propping but also the intricate french plaiting thats worked up the head and onto the hair thats been padded. The hair is extremely high with the frizzing technique the Elizabethans would also share.

These designs for me scream Elizabethan; eccentric but with the defined shape. The term 'The new Elizabethans' can be displayed here because the influence is so clear. Strikingly gorgeous.

Chanel

http://www.elleuk.com/fashion/celebrity-style/chanel-metiers-d-art-show-scotland

Practicing my Partners design

Anna's design is pretty fiddly with a lot of plaiting and little details. Extremely Elizabethan and traditional I think her design is, she's included padding also in to the crown of the head.


                                             

As you can see the hair is extremely full and detailed. For me at the start when Anna gave me her design I was worried; a French plait centres the head, the dreaded French plait that I wasn't exactly great at. On each side of the plait is fishtails that are also worked into the head.


Anna's design has slightly changed since she originally showed me at the start of the project, before deciding to change on each side of the French plait were actually two fish tail plaits and there wasn't any curls around the face which Anna has only just changed. I believe these changes look much better for the design as before it might of looked so much with plaiting, padding, crimping, curling and a bun at the back.

 From practicing at home and having help from tutors the dreaded French Plait is much less un-desired, I've found an easier technique in which working in straight sections using my finger as a guide is much easier and also looks a lot straighter.

Elizabeth I & The Rainbow Portrait

Elizabeths looks in later life have be subsequently left out of history, the queen herself refused to have any of her portraits done without her say so; almost like a tutor Photoshop her portraits weren't realistic and were changed to suit the queens pleasure.

The portrait called "The Rainbow portrait" is a perfect example of this being painted when Elizabeth was sixty-eight in 1600 in the portrait Elizabeth is painted even though her age as relatively young. Even though a painting you can see the youthfulness in her skin full and unwrinkled.

The hair on her head is also a wig, due to Elizabeths hair in the history books being short and even described as "greying red hair" on the account she gave Philip Sidney (A English poet and Solider) a lock of her natural hair when she was around 39-42

Elizabeth  though never bald Elizabeth had extremely short and thin hair which was why she wore wigs like in the portrait in all Elizabeth rocked over 80 wigs.

The painting is a perfect example of a change in appearance from the book 'Maisse, Andre Hurualt' In which recalls the account of the French Ambassadors meeting with Elizabeth three years prior to the portrait being painted in 1600. The ambassador Andre Hurault-Sieur de Maisse describes Elizabeth;

 "Her bosom is somewhat wrinkled as well as one can see for the collar that she wears round her neck, but lower down her flesh is exceeding white and delicate, so far as one could see."

                                        http://www.eyewitnesstohistory.com/elizabethI.htm

Off course now looking onto 'The Rainbow Portrait' for any similar references to this quote doesn't match at all Elizabeth at the time was meant to be in her sixties, the painting by Isaac Oliver. Expressed as the most colourful Tutor painting of the time Elizabeth I is painted as the immortal and Virgin queen loved by her people.

http://www.everypainterpaintshimself.com/article/isaac_olivers_rainbow_portrait_of_queen_elizabeth_i_c.1600

Here is a great site that actually looks into the painter motives for painting Elizabeths features.