Anna's Turn in the hot seat

Anna's timed assessment came at the worst time possibly for me being her stylist; my Nan's six month anniversary since she'd sadly lost her battle to cancer. Off course I wasn't in the best mood but in the hour and half I had to create Anna's design I honestly tried my best. The hair went okay I wanted to panic but I held myself the best I could for my partner.

Anna's design isn't easy; pretty much every skill except frizzing we're learnt over the last 3 months was incorporated into her design. Especially as I've said before the french plait was what I was super worried about. Thank god me and Anna had been practicing out of class a lot.

I was set up and it was time to work.

For me these are the best shots as they show the hair off in the correct lighting, Anna a few days before the practical decided she wants to add some detailing to the bun; its subtle but adds an attractive finish to the hair.

IT'S TIME

So finely after practicing and practicing it was time for Anna to be my stylist and me be the designer.
Working onto my hair Anna has about a hour and a half all in all to do the design in which she photographed after.

The blue in my hair is really effective against my hairs dark colouring.

I'm really happy with what Anna has achieved into making my design what i had wanted. In the shoot I added pearl earrings as having no hair props I still wanted the clear connotation towards the Elizabethans to be clearly put.

My Design- Practicing

The finished version of my Design, the noting is just saying for Anna what I wanted in a basic format I also wrote up a step by step as of course I wouldn't be able to give Anna directions in the practical

So it was my turn to be the designer in me and Anna's paring first, My design contributed of 2 plaits onto the side of my head moulded into a soft bun with loose curls in my undercut.

Not only were we dedicated in our partnership we also practiced in and out of class to perfect my design.

  

Heres one of the practices we did in class a few weeks into the project. In this lesson Anna worked on  the plaiting and bun of my design mainly getting the shaping correct.

Here is another practice a bit later on in the studio, the shaping was neater and also the amount of time it was taking to plait the hair. The plaiting for me is my favourite technique on the design because not only does it look attractive; the way it creates shape into the hair is interesting to look at.

After looking at the Chanel Couture show in 2010 in Paris with the silver fringes and heart padding I starting thinking what makes my design unique? What can I add to this design?

I started looking into the idea of hair chalk and how it adapts the hair in such an easy way. A few months ago I brought some blue hair chalk in add to plaits for festival season and the summer, I had gotten the inspiration from Instagram and Google images.

Image's like this inspired me, adding a delicate touch to the finished hairstyle. This photo is perfect because the hair is braided

I love this design.

                        http://www.hairromance.com/2013/08/how-to-use-hair-chalk.html

Chanel Couture 10'

  

                 http://www.palacinka.com/2010/01/pastel-heart-shaped-hair-silver-nails.html


I am in love. This look for a Chanel Paris couture show in 2010 is gorgeous. The way the hair has being created in this padded heart is extremely Elizabethan in its shaping. JUST LOOK AT IT. the use of colour and bow detailing could be seen as a modern day influence.

Extremely pretty and unique, the use of a colouring in the shape works well as it though contrasting is really suited. An Elizabethan colour? Maybe not so much but notice the models pale skin and red lips... extremely Elizabethan.

The inclusion of adding a fringe is something that I want to do with my work after numerous practices of trying pin curls and looking like I'd actually been electrocuted. I also like the idea of using colour to the hair like a hair chalk so I don't have to make the commitment of actually dying my hair.

According to Karl Lagerfeld this show is inspired by "Liquid Silver" & "Neon Baroque" but for me personally its like the models has escaped the Elizabethan era and the first place they went to was a disco.

The entire hair is very detailed and structured every strand on the models head has been planned to look that way.

The lace down the parted heart is very fitting with the hair as not only does it hide the silver extensions and blend but is also extremely Elizabethan as lace was extremely popular with obviously the luxurious cuts being for the wealthy and renascence.

Padding- The Heart shape

Elizabethans LOVED the use of padding in their hair styles; especially the Heart ♡ shaped padding that also featured in a lot of hat designs likes the Attifet.

                                                           

Heres a look one day my partner in the session did on my hair using padding and a bun this look is extremely Elizabethan as back in the day these ladies loved their heart shaped hair styles within adapting the hair or using props and hair pieces like the attifet. 

For this look my partner used two pieces of padding in which she wrapped my hair around after crimping. My fringe was an annoying part to do because its shorter its hard to curl so what she did after we had talked about it was it curl it and pin it to maintain the shape.

The bun is just rolled and pinned into place at the base of the head.

Curling the hair like an Elizabethan/Modern Inspired

Throughout the term we have been learning and practicing different curling and frizzing techniques, not only is this great for learning as part of our Styling classes but towards our Elizabethan project as Curling and frizzing will come in the designs for many.

Crimping 

You will need:

Crimper

Sectioning clips

Heat Defence Spray

Using a Crimper is pretty easy, the heat of course depends on someone hair type and thickness. Using a crimper like any other electrical devise which adapts and changes the hair simply turn on and wait to heat up. For the actual crimping take a small section of the hair as it creates a much nicer finished effect and using the crimp from near the roots taking a piece of hair at a time, the amount of time to usually press down the crimp in around 5 seconds. 

The figure of eight curl

you will need:

Large Pins

Grips

Straighteners

Sectioning clips

To create this look which I did on halloween with the help of another member of the course you will need a lot of time due to the time consuming time it will take to cover the entire head.

Start of in the section you want to start with, we started in the front. Make sure hair isn't in the way and all the rest of the hair is sectioned with clips. 

Begin But taking a small piece of hair (small very small) and place the large pin at the root facing up as its much easier to do the figures that way

Around the pin start to wrap round the hair in a figure of eight sequence wrapping round and tucking in with ever step; make sure the hair is tightly on the pin.

When most the hair on the pin secure by wrapping the remaining hair around the end of the pin and fastening wit a small grip (always use the bumpy part to secure with)

Next in using heat with the look get some straighteners turn to a temperature not to hot maybe like 180/190 and pressing onto the figure of eight this not only heats up the hair into shape but also the pin

Leave to cool down before attempting to take pin out, after removing the grip loosen the hair and the pin should slip out if gently pulled.

This look is great for Afros or even what we see in some Elizabethan portraits with the hair down the back of the neck like in the photo from halloween, can be brushed out or left in the zig zag type pattern.

Curling 

Elizabethans loved their curls. In class we learnt techniques on how to create a perfect curl using small curling irons

you will need:

Curling Irons

Brush

Section Clips

Grips

The position of the curling iron whilst starting of the curls is very important, to position yourself and the curling iron correcting is important in achieving the correct curl. 

When picking sections chose a smaller section as its easier to work with especially if the hairs thick but also creates a nicer finish.

Curl the hair in a vertical pattern to the head on the crown (parting). 

Once the curl has been in the iron for enough time (depending on the hair 6/8 seconds) gently realise the hair and let it drop into your hand as its important to keep the curl grab a grip and roll the hair into place near the root; not only does this help get the curl out the way but whilst cooling this keeps the hair in shape for much longer.

                                     http://www.pinterest.com/pin/526780487637234879/

Wow just look at her hair. The tight pin curls that frame her face up to her crown which then looks like its kept into a alice band and caul. Pearls are everywhere this lady was extremely wealthy.

http://www.haircolorsideas.com/bright-hair-colors/blue-hair/pastel-curls/

Oh wow. This hair featured in Elle September 2011 is absolutely gorgeous. The pastel ombre that has been curled and brushed out in this delicate look is extremely effective. I love this look.

Modern Day Hair Inspired by the Elizabethans

Thom Browne, Elizabethan

Oh Thom Browne a truly create collection. Structured with the classic, sexy with the clinched in waists and use of white shades. The makeup though takes a salute towards gotham with the Joker and also Elizabethan with the palette of colour used. Whited out faces with red/cerise lips. These models look like they've just returned from a wild night out.

The hair is the most important feature within comparing this look to an Elizabethan style. Already the clothing speaks Elizabethan with the high collars but taking a lot at the hair and shaping we notice that are clear Elizabethan hints.

The shaping; big and padded. Looking through pictures the like the photos above of the show there are clear heart shaping's emerging; though messy the shape in still there.

The Caul and Ruffled Neck.

              http://blogs.wsj.com/speakeasy/2013/09/10/thom-browne-conjures-absurdist-fashion-onstyle-notebook/

The photo above could not be expressed closer to Elizabethan the use of shape and a hair piece such as the Elizabethan women would have. The caul here is in the colour red; a colour which would of been worn only by people of class due to the dye being a luxury. The caul is also accessorised with pearls exactly like an Elizabethan.






Chanel, Elizabethan

 Chanel
The show was in Edinburgh which incidentally is also Mary Queen of Scots birthplace, symbolic? me thinks so.

If you don't see the referencing in this to the Elizabethan era I would wonder if your eyes were shut. This Chanel show back in W/12 was a clear connotation towards the ear not only with the clothing such as luxury materials golds/pearls and lace with the high collars but the hair. The hair is extremely detailed with the use of propping but also the intricate french plaiting thats worked up the head and onto the hair thats been padded. The hair is extremely high with the frizzing technique the Elizabethans would also share.

These designs for me scream Elizabethan; eccentric but with the defined shape. The term 'The new Elizabethans' can be displayed here because the influence is so clear. Strikingly gorgeous.

Chanel

http://www.elleuk.com/fashion/celebrity-style/chanel-metiers-d-art-show-scotland

Practicing my Partners design

Anna's design is pretty fiddly with a lot of plaiting and little details. Extremely Elizabethan and traditional I think her design is, she's included padding also in to the crown of the head.


                                             

As you can see the hair is extremely full and detailed. For me at the start when Anna gave me her design I was worried; a French plait centres the head, the dreaded French plait that I wasn't exactly great at. On each side of the plait is fishtails that are also worked into the head.


Anna's design has slightly changed since she originally showed me at the start of the project, before deciding to change on each side of the French plait were actually two fish tail plaits and there wasn't any curls around the face which Anna has only just changed. I believe these changes look much better for the design as before it might of looked so much with plaiting, padding, crimping, curling and a bun at the back.

 From practicing at home and having help from tutors the dreaded French Plait is much less un-desired, I've found an easier technique in which working in straight sections using my finger as a guide is much easier and also looks a lot straighter.

Elizabeth I & The Rainbow Portrait

Elizabeths looks in later life have be subsequently left out of history, the queen herself refused to have any of her portraits done without her say so; almost like a tutor Photoshop her portraits weren't realistic and were changed to suit the queens pleasure.

The portrait called "The Rainbow portrait" is a perfect example of this being painted when Elizabeth was sixty-eight in 1600 in the portrait Elizabeth is painted even though her age as relatively young. Even though a painting you can see the youthfulness in her skin full and unwrinkled.

The hair on her head is also a wig, due to Elizabeths hair in the history books being short and even described as "greying red hair" on the account she gave Philip Sidney (A English poet and Solider) a lock of her natural hair when she was around 39-42

Elizabeth  though never bald Elizabeth had extremely short and thin hair which was why she wore wigs like in the portrait in all Elizabeth rocked over 80 wigs.

The painting is a perfect example of a change in appearance from the book 'Maisse, Andre Hurualt' In which recalls the account of the French Ambassadors meeting with Elizabeth three years prior to the portrait being painted in 1600. The ambassador Andre Hurault-Sieur de Maisse describes Elizabeth;

 "Her bosom is somewhat wrinkled as well as one can see for the collar that she wears round her neck, but lower down her flesh is exceeding white and delicate, so far as one could see."

                                        http://www.eyewitnesstohistory.com/elizabethI.htm

Off course now looking onto 'The Rainbow Portrait' for any similar references to this quote doesn't match at all Elizabeth at the time was meant to be in her sixties, the painting by Isaac Oliver. Expressed as the most colourful Tutor painting of the time Elizabeth I is painted as the immortal and Virgin queen loved by her people.

http://www.everypainterpaintshimself.com/article/isaac_olivers_rainbow_portrait_of_queen_elizabeth_i_c.1600

Here is a great site that actually looks into the painter motives for painting Elizabeths features.

My Inital Designs

The 3 Hair Templates of our initial ideas

Design 1
This design I did a while ago looking back now is extremely traditional. Having a fringe I initially wanted it to be curled and pinned much like what was popular in those days. In a lot of Elizabethan painting the idea of a curled fringe was a favourite.

A Elizabethan copy is right here on Ann-Marie Duff who played the role of Elizabeth herself in a the mini series "The Virgin Queen" just look at those perfect curls framing her face, images like this inspired me to look into having the hair done.


Upon reflection and practicing though this look didn't work very well with my partner as my fringe is shorter I didn't want to have a finished result of it not being up to the design. I also realised NEW ELIZABETHAN what was unique about this look?. Maybe playing to safe. Off I went to research more and design.

Design 2
Yet again a design I did a while ago much like the last there were big elements of keeping to the Elizabethan ways with the curled fringe (looser curls this time) but with the popular heart shape which was used with padding and even when parted in the middle.

http://www.pinterest.com/pin/486881409689926405/

Look at this image, The hair padding is perfectly into the popular shape, the attifet moulded around the hair

Also After looking at props I designed a band to fit around the crown that would separate the fringe and padding in pearls, hair props or accessorises are in fitting.


Design 3
Design 3 is the design I decided in the end to continue upon. I love plaiting not because its pretty but because the finish look can be relaxed or extremely detailed.

A few weeks after the design had been written up I began looking into including my fringe and not curling it; after all this entire project is based on the Elizabethan era meeting a modern twist one that we can reflect and work upon connecting to our hair.

After working more onto this design I decided this was the final look me and my partner as the stylist would work upon.

Alexander McQueen Inspired Hair

Alexander McQueen the incredible designer who lives on through the legacy of designers working for his label such as Sarah Burton his original right hand women and the now creative designer. His designs are beautiful the dedicated workings of a talent.

McQueen in a lot of his campaigns has clearly been inspired by the Elizabethan era which reflected on the catwalk.


Fall/Winter 2013

The fall/winter McQueen show in Paris. Just look at these images; the references to the Elizabethan era is as clear as day... the structured clothing, the lace, the collar and thats just the outfit. The hair is covered in this beautiful pearl detail on the hair net; a piece of both art and jewellery in my eyes. The beautiful clear makeup on the girls that also nods to the Elizabethan era with the slight tinting on the lips and paleness with the blond eyebrows. The look is contemporary because the net covers the models faces something in Elizabethan times they would do and off course the fact skin is revealed to show how modern times have changed from the days of only ankle peeping. Sarah Burton at the time was pregnant with twins and still managed to pull this off with the McQueen team. I love this entire show.

McQueen Show F/W 13

Fall/Winter 2004 

Extremely contemporary yet still with clear referencing toward the Elizabethan era in the fall/Winter 2004 collection for McQueen, its madness to think this show is ten years old. Off course this look isn't a exact copy of an Elizabethans beauty look but the references are there; the bleached eyebrows, the tight curls of the models hair which are extremely Elizabethan with the fact on many of the models they were in the hairline like in many portraits in the era  (notice above its red, red hair and pale hair was seen as the ultimate beauty look to have in Elizabethan times) 

the models faces are also whited out to make them look extremely pale. Theres a extremely to this look the makeup though simple still looks extremely to its lack of life. The eyes are the focus point on the face framed nicely under the eyebrows in a pale yet still but defined line. The entire look is structured.


For the image above the hair though curled is also swept/jelled probably to highlight the idea of a larger forehead being seen as beauty (Elizabeth is know for her high hairline).
These curls have been created using a tiny hair curler and then pinning after; The hair is extremely detailed a lot of time has been given in prep and production time to achieve these perfect tight curls.

F/W 04

RIP

Hair Washing

For our very very first ever (have I made that clear) lesson with Lottie we learnt the step to step way to properly washing ones hair like how to a hair salon would work.

A step by Step; to be fair the usual every other day. The way to massage the hair with shampoo and conditioner.

Processes

before water is placed on head ALWAYS test temperature; test of wrist.

1.Wash hair to remove to wet using the basin and the model having placed a towel over the shoulders to protect from drip .

2. turn tap off and grab a small portion of shampoo in your hand, on the head work through the hair lightly massaging. REMEMBER shampoo cleanses.

3.Wash out, cup around the hairline to save the model/client getting water into their eyes or ruining their makeup.

4. Apply the conditioner and carefully pat onto hair; only work into the hair not the roots. This builds up grease if you work into the root and increases the amount you should be washing you hair,

5.WASH OUT, If dry and brittle add a serum onto before its dry and massage the tips

A good website to learn facts and tips is http://hairdressing.ac.uk easy peasy.

This is a process every stylist will learn; what if on a shoot the designer wants the hair clean? or you're working a wedding? Hair is important and needs to be treated well. Remember though everyone has different hair. Different types; thin, thick, brittle and frizzy.

Plaits

oh plaiting the joys, at the beginning of the class I was dreading the precise and delicate art that is plaiting for me before I started the course the only plait I could do was the three stranded simple one we learn at primary school any other complicated creation wasn't obtainable with my brain.


Is this lesson we learnt 3 basic plaiting techniques

1. French - perhaps for me the most difficult of the 3 as I found it extremely fiddley and strangely stressful at first hah, this plait is extremely Elizabethan the people of this time did love a good braid. I wonder who first thought to plait ones hair.

for this plait the plait is in the three strand format, but after the connection is plaited you need to grab your hair from the sides that the three strands are from.... Sound confusing? Isn't to bad after practice, work down the hair using straight sectioning whilst working the hair because it's a lot easier wasn't till a lesson with Helen long into the project and she taught me to do the straight sectioning technique it looks a look neater to and organised.

this plait for me personally still needs practice It's not perfect. The day I can plait my fringe into the rest of my hair will be a happy day

Here is a typical french plait I actually found on a  hairdressing training site

2. Fishtail - this is the plait I always wanted to know how to do. I love this plait, extremely feminine and pretty.

The braid it's self is actually easy it can be fiddly but just working with your hands higher so you have more control in the hair. simple take two strands of how much hair you want for your creation and with each moment take a piece of hair from the OUTSIDE and cross over that selected strand and cross under the next strand and proceed to do this process with the opposite hair carry on taking and crossing under under a fish tale is created, does take a while and is fiddly at first but pretty easy to accomplish. For another look once the plait is complete and and secured at the end you can use your hands to loosen the hair to create a relaxed look, pl to the sides never down as that doesn't make any sense anyway.

3. Traditional plait- of course this plait is easy peasy, like all plaits it's can be messy or neat; If you have layers a messy plait will happen.

Remember the red classic plait Rihanna had for the mtv awards a few years ago? I KNOW YOU DO.

An big braid created with hair extensions 

                                        http://www.elizabethan-portraits.com/Various_6.htm


In this portrait of Elizabeth of Austria, Queen of France painted by Francois Clouet not only in her hair is a jewelled what looks like a pillar box hat; the hair is in plaiting around her face in a delicate formation starting at the parting.

Elizabethan Hair

A brilliant example of some popular Elizabeth Hair styles

Elizabethan hair was big bold and extreme; intricate detailing was involved with renascence important women. Just look at some of Elizabeths hair styles within portrait this woman was seen as the ultimate idol; viewed as beautiful, people wanted to look like her so hairs were exactly the same people would copy the queen, women of nobility even dyed their hair a yellow colour to reflect the queens of course though hair dye back in those times to make ones hair yellow a concoction of saffron, cumin seeds and oil would make the desired look. Image the smell of there hair.

Hair down was seen as youthful and worn for most weddings as it represented virginity, due to women back then not cutting their hair regularly and keeping it long; flowers were also worn in a womens hair for weddings to show natural beauty; only married hair was swept back and styled like I will write into.

There were many different types of hair styles back then though all in common due to the fact they were 99% of the time some sort of updo past marriage; Elizabethans loved plaiting and curls.

Elizabeth herself ended up having over 80 wigs after losing her hair.

Elizabethans loved props from pearls to pieces such as ruffs and hats like french hoods.

A ruff was worn by both female and male Elizabethans, acting as a high frilled collar that framed the face as hair was also generally worn up. A ruff was made from gauze and lined with lace once in shape. Ruff's always amaze me the eccentric wardrobe of the Elizabethans theres something incredibly clown like about them, must of been extremely uncomfortable to being a weight around the next.

A French Hood which obviously had its origins in France was a decorative head piece that was wired and shaped around the head in a half crescent style band; most would be brimmed with jewels or pearls. Elizabeths mother Anne Boleyn is credited as introducing the hood to english style. The French's shape because more pronounced in its curve during Elizabethans reign; guess it was just a change in fashion like pastel.

The Coif was a linen hat that was actually worn by children always with the colouring of white, sometimes the coif was worn under larger hats because they were good for keeping the hair in place as they were close fitting to the chin.

The Caul I lovvvvveeeeeee this basically a hair net covered in pearls or other decretive pieces, women would wear at the back of their heads on a bun to spruce it up a bit. Find these extremely pretty and delicate.

The pillbox hat yes you are correct the pillbox hat was extremely popular in the sixties making a reappearance. Even back in the Elizabethan times these hats were worn with a veil; the fashionable Tutors.

Hair Hair Hair

So the entire course is Makeup and Hair styling; hair for me is a challenge I can hardly plait my own hair who know coming into this what I would of expected. An exciting journey is taking place within my own learning and self confidence.

Each week we have two double lessons of Hair one is a practical with our tutor Lottie learning pretty much everything over the next three years whilst the other double lesson is on a thursday learning about the different types of Elizabethan hair; Our tutor Helen also has worked in the theatre and worked with wig making which is a exciting area and one I would like to explore.

For me personally I come from a art back ground doing a art fountain before I came onto the course; my chosen pathway was 3D as I enjoyed creating 3D pieces such as masks. For my final project I created a baked gingerbread man chandelier which was fun.

Within hair its just learning and gaining the confidence to properly create the looks.

I can't wait to complete my completed designs in a few weeks with my partner